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All Issues » Issue #126 » Food / Drink
The Livery (aka Cowtown Saloon) restaurant and bar was once known as Oleson’s Livery, a business that rented out horses to city dwellers for short trips.
May 14, 2009 Issue
New Eatery: The Livery
new downtown eatery focuses on unexpected fare
words by Kinzy Janssen
photography by Andrea Paulseth
Point to something at The Livery, and it probably has a story behind it. It is also quite possibly very old.
The restaurant and bar (aka Cowtown Saloon), is a long-awaited project that required careful restoration of a rare building. Co-owner John Mogenson says they worked on transforming the historic livery “on and off for about two years.”
On April 29, it was finally ready. “We had a quiet opening,” says co-owner Lisa Aspenson, who also co-owns Stella Blues, Mona Lisa’s, The Red Room, and Mogie’s Pub with Mogenson. “Many people downtown were already familiar with the project.”
The two-floor restaurant and bar was once known as Oleson’s Livery, a business that rented out horses to city dwellers for short trips. Demand for this kind of transportation peaked in 1890, when 13 liveries existed in Eau Claire. Merely a decade afterward, when automobiles were already ubiquitous, liveries (if they didn’t shut down) were forced to become chameleons, blending into the new auto-dominated culture by providing car maintenance. There are only 19 intact livery buildings on the National Register.
Today, as you approach the brick façade, you’ll likely hear modern country music piping out into the street. Through the modern glass door, you’ll be greeted by a modern server, who will escort you to one of many modern, elevated tables, or straight to the bar, which is also modern … or so it would seem. The smooth, matte-black surface where you set your Spotted Cow is constructed from blackboards salvaged from Boyd School. I’m told the bartender may use chalk to jot down your name so he or she remembers it.
Local antiquities such as these represent different layers of history, but their combination creates a new whole. For instance, an ancient-looking tabletop bowling game feels “settled” in its new role as a dining table. Behind the bar, a working garage door (an indicator of the building’s auto-era) separates indoor seating from the patio. Depending on the whims of the waiters (and the weather) the garage door may remain wide open, affording a view of the huge square fire pit and bright red chairs and tables.
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buybuffalo
01/23/10
Visited for the first time, Friday, Jan. 22. Hostess was bored-looking. Waiter was OK. I had the grilled Jerk Chicken--cold. I enjoyed the fries. Husband had the batter-fried fish-OK. Unique atmosphere. Did not offer enough to guarantee a return visit.
Kelly P.
11/17/09
I loved the calamari and the salmon wrap! The outdoor seating area is very nice.
mogiesgirl
08/24/09
I wish that bowling arcade game was working instead of a table....it's too much fun!!
Dissatisfied
06/26/09
A comfortable atmosphere, friendly waiters, but cold fries, dry fish, and dry beans. Will try it again perhaps and select another meal.
ssu
06/14/09
It is wonderful to see the creative menu and find chef Bilda in this terrific environment. I found the menu to be delightfully extravagant without being pretentious or overpriced. Large or small plate selections are available and the food was delicious! Happy Cooking, Chef Bilda and Happy Eating to the rest of you.
prettyinpink
05/19/09
First impression was good, but the burger we ordered was small and square like it was frozen. The pulled pork was alright a little dry, but not all that great. They had home-made fries that were plain boring. But if I wanted to bar hop, they had some amazing drinks and unique atmosphere, but again a little too pricey for me and mine.
BettyBettizzle
05/13/09
This is such a beautiful space. It makes me feel like I went to Minneapolis without leaving Eau Claire.